Constructing a Rad. machine, really works WELL, for Dummies

[alienlady]

I am so proud of that beautiful box.

I am also so Proud of YOU for making such a professional looking and well made (inside) Radionics Machine that you made according to all the specs of Adam and Joseph's expert suggestions.

If it wasn't for all our emails back and forth I couldn't have made all the parts that I sent to you according to their correct Specifications. Right down to the Orgone Amp... I have the 50% Organic matter just as you suggested. Before we started discussing the making of the Orgone - I was one of those that believed the resin was the "Organic Matter." I have been enlightened now.

I am now trying to share that information with my customers that have the same misconception of the Resin and Organic Matter.

I hope together, and with everyone from this forum, we can inform and encourage novices to make their own machines.

My Crystal looks wonderful peeking out from inside the box. The flash light inside for sake of the picture was "brilliant." No pun intended.

If I ever get to making a Radionics Box myself (I did already buy the box for one) I am going to have the same style Peek a Boo Crystal. I LOVE IT - I LOVE IT.

Thank you Meditation for teaching me so much! And I am indebted to all the helpful members in this community for all their wonderful suggestions. They too have taught me so much.

I can't wait to get the box and try my first simple wish. Then I'll shoot for the 4 bedroom house. lol.

[mrdee0]

Nice looking box- let us know your experiences and results

[alienlady]

OH yes I will keep you posted.

[mrdee0]

Any updates on this?

[erik]

In line with the topic of the post... I too am a dummy, but I got my mind set on building a Hieronymus analizer machine. I'm new to radionics but have read a lot of stuff, and wanto to get into it . Too bad that for me it is really hard to follow the original schematic posted by Bill Jensen.
There are several things that puzzle me.
for example:

- the schematic shows a circuit that has only the + 12 V ... no - 12 V which is a nonsense.

- the witness well wiring is also very unclear : in a document i find Bill saying " Start the windings at the side closest to the mouth of the beaker. Wind 15 turns around the Pyrex beaker (13) with two strands of the enamel wire (14). Leave 6” and strip the two ends at the bottom of the beaker
and solder together. Space these coils over an inch. All ends should have 6” free. Wrap the coil and exposed glass with tape (15). Strip and tin the ends".

In another : "Wind 8 turns around the Pyrex beaker (13) with enamel wire (14). Leave 6” and strip the end. Space these coils over an inch. Start the winding at the side closest to the mouth of the beaker. Attach a second piece of enamel wire and wind 8 turns the other direction. All ends should have 6” free. Wrap the coil and exposed glass with tape (15). Strip and tin the ends. "

So which one is correct?

One more thing. The schematic shows a third wire coming out of the witness well but there is no mention of if in the assembly procedure , what is it for and is it attached to the coil or what?

Thanks for hepling.

[SteamP]

Hi all,
I'm new here, but having followed this forum for a while, I'd like to ask your opinion about one design of mine I'm currently trying to develop.
I started from the classical three dials passive design (Cosimano's style, stealing the forum images as well, BTW: Thanks for sharing), catching with no shame many inputs from JosephMax and many others, and adding some of my little researches about stickpads and coils etc.
Nothing exceptional from me, but very intriguing....
Since I read one post about De La Warr own style whom, if I'm not mistaken, chose the parallel wiring of potentiometers (instead of series wiring, and as rheostats) I decided to try to develop a circuitry able to switch from one configuration to the other.
Then I added a quadrupole switch to change a cold scan from direct to compensating in a mechanical way, instead to have to tune sequentially each potentiometer.
Last, from my research came out that my optimal (or optimistic ...?) solution would have been a four (or six) dials instead of three, depending upon the type of potentiometers used.
I found very interesting the idea of putting inside just *one* crystal after the tuning block instead of one for each resistor, and I adopted it (from falcott, 2015), and an Orgonite TB (is the crystal on top of it really needed?) under the center of the stickpad, in order to optimize the response.
After all this, curiously enough I reached a configuration which is really near to Sorynzar's as posted in *Re: What is that wire?* on Thu Jan 31, 2013, just a bit more complicated (and I don't know if this is good or bad...).
Now, for the active part of my box I'd like to add an input for an alternative external generator, but I cannot decide where the optimal signal injection point is in the circuit, before the crystal or after it, before the whole tuning section or not, etc.
Could You give me some suggestion about which one to choose and why?
Thank You very much.

[pelicanbill]

Depending on which country you are in, radionics machines seem to be considered pure hoaxes. Abrams was locked up and he was a proper doctor who just happened to develop a machine which detected and treated.

In the UK as far as I know, it is alright to treat humans but I have a feeling that even treating animals has to be passed by the vet. Cannot remember where I heard that, but I do know that Radionics is very big in the horse racing business, probably because it works without any chemicals to be detected in the animals body.