Schematics Doubt

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whitelotus
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Schematics Doubt

Postby whitelotus » Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:52 pm

I have almost begun to build my Top secret manifest generator.I have drawn out the schematics in a more understandable format for the original is unclear and confusing in parts.
I've read the plans a Gazillion times and have put together the parts. Can you please verify my schematic of the coils inside the box and let me know if it makes Radionics and electronics sense?

The schematic is in refernce to these pictures
http://www.angelfire.com/clone/disclosu ... hmatic.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/clone/disclosu ... hmatic.jpg

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Thank you.

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sorynzar
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Schematics Doubt

Postby sorynzar » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:52 am

You need to sever the connection between the two minus pins of the batteries. I don't know why there are two different sizes of battery in the original design. Feel free to change that part of it. Maybe use two D cell batteries, you could get a holder for these, and mount that to the inside of the box. It seems the battery is only powering the motor, led and lamp, so it should be o.k to change. Also add a switch to turn it on and off.

whitelotus
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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby whitelotus » Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:51 am

sorynzar wrote:You need to sever the connection between the two minus pins of the batteries.


I did it as it was in the plans.
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Will the circuit not work if the two negatives are connected?

sorynzar wrote: I don't know why there are two different sizes of battery in the original design. Feel free to change that part of it. Maybe use two D cell batteries, you could get a holder for these, and mount that to the inside of the box. It seems the battery is only powering the motor, led and lamp, so it should be o.k to change. Also add a switch to turn it on and off.


I will do that.Thank you!

1)Could you suggest the rating for the motor and white bulb?
2)I am using a red LED 10 mm. Should I put a resistor in the circuit?

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JosephMax
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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby JosephMax » Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:18 pm

whitelotus wrote:
sorynzar wrote:You need to sever the connection between the two minus pins of the batteries.


I did it as it was in the plans.
Image

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Will the circuit not work if the two negatives are connected?


I agree, reverse the direction of the AA battery. Actually, you could use two 'D' batteries, as Sorynzar suggests, since all these batteries are +1.5v.

But you do need both batteries, together they are a dual power supply with three "rails": +1.5v, 0v (neutral "center tap", the point where the batteries meet), and -1.5v. But it won't work unless they are inserted + to – in series. At those low voltages it's pretty safe to play with, so if you use battery holders you can try out the minus-to–minus connection by just flipping the one over in the holder at see if the lights still light up. I don't know why the designer documented it that way, but it makes more electrical sense to always use batteries in a plus-connects-to-minus configuration.

It's true that the electricity is only powering the lights and motor, but wire it the way I'm describing and you get a "floating" neutral - as in, not completing the path back to the plus-or-minus taps.) It's connected through the coils to the stick pad, where is "ends". I've seen this kind of design before in much higher voltage radionic devices. The idea being that the aetheric energy "circuit" is completed through the body of the operator, and couples with the earth's magnetic field.

sorynzar wrote: I don't know why there are two different sizes of battery in the original design. Feel free to change that part of it. Maybe use two D cell batteries, you could get a holder for these, and mount that to the inside of the box. It seems the battery is only powering the motor, led and lamp, so it should be o.k to change. Also add a switch to turn it on and off.


I will do that.Thank you!

1)Could you suggest the rating for the motor and white bulb?
2)I am using a red LED 10 mm. Should I put a resistor in the circuit?


You must run LEDs with a resistor in the circuit. Otherwise it'll just burn out. Here's the textbook answer:

First, determine the amount of current you wish to have flow through the LED. You will need to get this information from the datasheet.

Once you have this piece of information, you can apply ohms law to determine the needed value of resistor. Take the supply voltage minus the voltage drop of the LED at the desired current and divide by the desired current. This will give you the needed resistance. Typically, assume 10ma current for a general LED and using that value as an example:

It's running off +1.5 volts, which is pretty low, let's assume there's a 25% power drop:

1.5v – .375v = 1.125v / 10ma = 150 ohms

150 ohms is a common value, but if you go much below 150 ohms you might burn out the LED. Good thing they're cheap! You can experiment, but I bet something between 150 to 200 ohms is fine.

For the motor, this would work:

http://www.amazon.com/Aristo-Craft-Cerm ... B0006O378C

For the white light I'd just steal a light bulb and holder out of a flashlight (hand torch) and use that.
•••••• Joseph Max – Aetheric Artist •••••••
•••• http://josephmax.wordpress.com ••••

whitelotus
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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby whitelotus » Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:11 pm

Hello!
Thank you very much Joseph. I needed that detailed explanation. I have done parts of non electronic portions of this machine. I dont know if its a coincidence- but I feel an increase in my ESP,Situations happen so that I can face my core issues nd it ends on a positive note mostly because i could openly deal with it. I feel very excited abt this project. I feel a need to closely follow the specs given in the manual down to the size n color.

I have slightly adjusted the above schematic as per your suggestions.Will this be ok?


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whitelotus
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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby whitelotus » Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:59 pm

Hello

Can sumone pls check this connection let me know if it is workable in a radionics sense. There isn't any proper explantion for this part in the Top secret manifest generator booklet- Just two fuzzy pics.

I've drawn out a basic schematic for the portions I've shown below here cropped:

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1)Are the potentiometers connected properly? (esp the last three) Are there two seperate circuits for trend and target or one?

2) For the graphite under alumnium strip part- Can I use some from a pencil?

3) Is the wire supposed to be bare? It looks like it is uninsulated in the pics though. (i guess it has to make contact with the graphite)

4) Nothing is given on how to coil the crystals in the document- So.....

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i) So I'm taking Joseph's suggestion of wrapping crystal coils in turns of 8
"The crystal coils I use in my devices always have turns in multiples of eight. This number seems to be prevalent in the original Hieronymus Machines and other devices. Cosmic Pipes have two matched coils of 44 turns each (total 88). I have plans for a Drown design "Treatment broadcaster" device that specifies 48 turns. So, if you need a coil of, say, 16 turns, then you need a crystal for the coil that will accommodate that many turns of wire. The diameter is not as crucial as the number of turns (and therefore the length.)"

ii) Should the coil be clockwise or anticlockwise as seen from the top?

iii)In these pictures the wiring look like it is uninsulated(or is it lacquer coated?) .
What is more sensible insulated or uninsulated ?

Thank you

Whitelotus

whitelotus
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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby whitelotus » Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:24 pm

Can someone please shed some light on the above questons?
I have finished the remaining porton of the machine. Only these few thngs are holdng me back. It'd be great if someone wth experence could chime in.

A good astrologcal window is coming up on the 1st of April. Hopefully I will run a trend then.

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sorynzar
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Schematics Doubt

Postby sorynzar » Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:06 am

Basic rule, clockwise windings draw the energy, and clockwise emits it. In terms of the crystals, in at the bottom of the coil, out at the top. The wire is lacquer coated copper wire.

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sorynzar
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Schematics Doubt

Postby sorynzar » Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:11 am

Sorry, working from my phone, so missed the other post. The wiring needs a little work. It's tricky to explain clearly. I will alter the drawing and repost it when I'm back at my computer.

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Re: Schematics Doubt

Postby sorynzar » Wed Mar 28, 2012 1:43 pm

Here is the updated wiring:

topef2.png
topef2.png (79.89 KiB) Viewed 6344 times


It now falls inline with conventional radionics.

If you need the wire to touch the graphite, then just expose a section of the lacquered wire. The easiest way to do this, is burn of the lacquer with a lighter, then sand it down with a piece of abrasive.


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